The city of Veracruz itself might be described as a blend of Havana and Acapulco. Widely known for its marimba music, fine coffee, and mardi gras, Veracruz is a festive city that has entered an economic and touristic revival. The southern part of the city features many new hotels, restaurants and clubs, while the central historic district is a fascinating polyglot of elaborate old homes, seedy nightclubs, and a seemingly endless street market. The market alone could occupy an adventurous photographer for a lifetime. On one recent visit there, a snake charmer operated on a street corner just opposite an a stall selling ladies lingerie. Across the street was a open-air barbershop and a fishmaket specializing in fresh octopus.

Driving south from Veracruz city, we will stop for an afternoon at the old port of Alvarado, then continue to Tlacotalpan, a tiny town of legendary beauty located on the banks of the Rio Papoloapan. Until the road to Tlacotalpan was opened a few years ago, one had to take a boat up the river from Alvarado to get there. Today, it’s only a half hour drive from Alvarado to this unique river town with its turtle vendors and alligator museum.

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